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PROJECT: BRITISH M10 |
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STAGE 1
The basic 3 part M10 model (hull, Turret & .5" AAMG) as it arrives out of the pack, from Pendraken Miniatures.
The first stage is to prepare the model for undercoating. This invloves cleaning up any flashing and mould lines using needle files and a scalpel (as with tools please be careful
when
using them). The barrel
of
the gun should be drilled
out
to about 1mm depth with
a
pin-vice,
using a drill bit
slightly smaller than the
barrel's
diameter. Once it's cleaned
up the mount for the AAMG is
drilled out and the AAMG stuck on using super glue
or 2-part epoxy resin.
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STAGE
2
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STAGE
2
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STAGE
2
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Once
the
model is cleaned, extra detail
can be added to it. This
includes
baggage, netting, sandbags,
aerials,
crew, petrol cans,
packs -
the
list
can
go
on and on. This detailing
adds
individuality to
your
models and is well worth
the
extra effort. If you're
not sure what extras crews
used to add to their vehicles
during WW2,
just check out photos
of
the actual vehicles you'll
find plenty of inspiration
within them.
The
images
above give some ideas
of
what you can achieve using
milliput
and green-stuff to
add
detail to the model. As
I wanted this model as a
British
M10
I've added a muzzle break
to represent the 17pdr gun
(righthand pic above).
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STAGE
3
Next the model needs to be
undercoated
to give a good base for the
paint to
adhere to. I always use a white
undercoat
as I find this helps give a
more illuminous
base for the colours to be used
on-top
later. Other base coat colours
that
can be used are grey and black, although
I feel these produce a duller
looking
paint job in the end.
I
use a basic white acrylic
car primer for
undercoating
my models. It's important
to
spray in a well
ventilated area using
2-3 light coats – not
one heavy coat that'll obliterate the detail on the model.
Allow plenty of drying
time at this point before
moving on to the next
stage.
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STAGE
4
Now it's time
to
start adding colour,
the patience
taken
on the previous stages will be well rewarded now at the painting stage. You should pick a colour that is sympathetic to the actual vehicles themselves. As this project is for a M10 in British service in 1944 North Europe, I'll use a base colour of Khaki Drab.
Firstly paint the Khaki Drab all over the model, then let this dry. Next comes a wash of black over the whole model. I use black ink for the wash as this gives a denser colour than thinning an acrylic black paint. Let the black wash dry thoroughly.
Next step is to apply progressively lighter tints of the base Khaki Drab colour. The technique used is dry-brushing, firstly I dry-brush using yellow added to the base colour. The next dry-brush coat I add white to the base colour. I then add more white and continue dry-brushing until I'm happy with the look of the model.
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STAGE 5
Once the base coat and dry-brushing is completed it's time to paint the other items on the model. I use black next to pick out the tracks, aerials and MGs. Again use a dry-brush technique to pick out the detail in the areas black has been applied to, but use a silver to lighten the black. With the tracks a thin wash of reddy-brown can be applied to suggest rusty metal. Next step is to pick
out other items like baggage, shells, etc in a suitable colour.
Once all painting is complete I add any markings and tactical signs, I usually paint these on but there are transfers available commercially.
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STAGE 6
Lastly, once everything is dry, I give the model a coat of varnish (I use artists picture varnish) to protect it from wear and tear. Apply two light coats of varnish, firstly a gloss and then lastly a matt coat. I use the gloss as I have found this gives more protection than a matt varnish. The matt varnish then gives a more natural look to the model. The varnish also adds depth and enhances the paintwork on the model.
You are now all finished! |
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For the full lists of this range please click on
the link above, Pendraken Home.
Models sculpted or converted and painted by Brian
George. |